It was fun this morning. Typically, unexplainably fun. But I'll try to explain. The image above is yours truly in a moment of enough generated speed to actually turn the big pink soft battleship off the top of a rogue righty. As is my inimitable style (nevertheless copied by kooky beginners and eight year old groms the world over) I spy a set on the outside and opt for the safety sliding over the top, trying to beat out the lip. Which I did, until I lost the grip on my board and that second waves drove it far to the inside. You can imagine the self-flagellation on the swim in. Luckily one moment among many, each more goofball than the next. But if the object is fun, and having fun has within its parameters whinging around an unwieldy pink softball bat of a surfboard in punchy Long Island surf, I came out a winner this morning.
Photo cred: Domick Volini