Tuesday, July 12, 2016


"Come celebrate New York surfing with Skudin Surf and the Hurley Surf Club. The biggest night in New York surfing features new films by the best local filmmakers and surfers, including: Thomas Brookin’s “Fire & Water”, “Jobless” by Natty Graham, Thor Larson and Brian Adamkiewicz and Surfer Magazine’s short featuring Will Skudin — profile subject in their newly released collector’s issue. PREMIERE INFO Thursday, July 14, 2016 6-10 pm Bridgeview Yacht Club 80 Waterfront Blvd, Island Park, NY 11558"

This Week in Not Surfing

1. On Fatherhood:
I take my son surfing early in the morning. While I put on my wetsuit he runs off to the dune beneath the lifeguard chair. I paddle around in two foot mush for a bit, trying to make myself feel like I'm doing something important, diligent. He digs holes in, and roles down, the sandy slope. I watch him butt flop and it knocks the air out of him. Later he waves to me and I paddle in. We swim together for ten minutes or so, and he declines a trip on the board. Raising a kid to surf, I'm sure, is easy in some places. I'm sure it's easy with some kids. But not this kid. He has a mild distrust of the water. Maybe of me in the water. We'll see if and when the thing takes hold.

2. On Being an Older Surfer:
I am at a crossroads in life. I'm now over forty years old and I've worked hard enough for long enough and have been lucky enough to be where I'm at. I'm far mellower than I was even three years ago. I'm working on getting mellower still. But my patience is starting to run thin. I lose my temper with decisions I consider dogmatism based on aesthetics instead of a pragmatism based on joy. I find morality a tiring concept to unpack. I am becoming more aware of my frailties and my shortcomings. I often find myself thinking I've reached the judicious level of my incompetence. But certain prerogatives of my youth hold on. I have a fascination with being outstandingly mediocre as a surfer. I've been at it so long that I am starting to consider myself the Serena Williams or Tim Duncan of outstandingly mediocre surfers. I mean, really, really, doggedly mediocre. There was a time that I'd only ride longboards. And then I'd only ride longboards that came from the trash or that someone gave me or would cost less than a hundred dollars. As those sorts of finds became less likely thanks to the explosion of surf popularity (find me a useful hundred dollar longboard now) I started widening the possible quiver to crappy old 70s single fins or 90s fun shapes. The more unwieldy, the more patently cruddy the shape, the yellower the sun damage, the more bulbous the delam... these were under my feet. And only under my feet every now and then. Because I undertook a strict regimen of not surfing. Of putting career and creative life and urban partying ahead of paddling out. The odd masochistic shock of shame and and internal recrimination somehow became a habit forming burst of anti-dopamine. Initially ignorant of my discipline, I covertly coveted the missed opportunities. I think. Actually it's all a bit of a blur, life. But the only way I can justify or qualify all the time I've spent getting steadily worse at surfing is to give it a kind of workmanlike mythos. Even now, I've spent the last three years sorting out how to look like a twerp on a soft top. I've started riding soft tops as twin fins, with no fins, in bigger waves, on perfect days. It's that old habit of shooting myself in the foot, of giving myself the finger. But I'm older now, maybe less inclined to follow my own rules. I hope.

3. On The Shit That's Been Happening for a Long Time
While I may have failed my education, my education has not failed me. And I know that the only hope is a change in the system. It isn't about the police culture, though that's part of it. It's not about gun control, though that's part of it too. It's about a systemic readjustment of priorities based on critical thinking and shared definitions. It's about managing a capitalist system that offers what capitalist systems ultimately should: continued equal opportunity. It's about racism and classism and old men and fear and willful stupidity and holding onto ignorance as a central tenet of life.

4. On Relationship
Two close cousins from the same bad habit family tree: The Doomed Loner and the Perpetual Martyr.

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Happening : Life Below The Surface

Rockaway Beach Surf Club welcomes a new artist to their space this July. Underwater photographer Anthony Dooley’s “Life Below the Surface” features a collection of artifacts and images from the sea. Images on canvas glassed in resin, screen printed art, mounted artifacts on wood and reassembled jaws of speared fish are just some of the varied pieces included in the show. Photographs from waterman Peter Correale’s world travels will also be displayed. The show runs July 8 - July 20.

Opening reception:

Friday, July 8, 2016
Rockaway Beach Surf Club
302 Beach 87th Street
Rockaway Beach, NY 11693

For more information, check out:

Sunday, July 3, 2016

This Week In Not Surfing

1. Someone in a position of curatorial power at Delta Airlines must be kind enough to consider the 2008 Gleason/Fiennes/Farrell fest In Bruges a cinema classic. This decision maker is equally inclined to make sure you have at least two Tom Hanks vehicles to sate your flying hours. And while I have never actually clicked on In Bruges, or, say, Sleepless in Seattle on my seatback monitor, I’ve spent hours gratefully repeatedly watching these films over other passengers shoulders.

 2. I spend a week shuttling between Dallas and Ft. Worth, the high rises and the stock yards. Nothing funny happens to me there. Not a single moment of a-ha-that’s-hilarious. Meandering between earnestness, pride, graciousness and a sort of vague distrust, I find this part of the world singularly serious in its self-estimation. Big thoughts. Big plans. Big traditions. Big problems. And while this kind of anti-glibness would probably normally unsettle me and my winking, irony filled, cynical East Coast urban outlook, it instead fills me with a sense of comfort, even if for a load of reasons I find puzzling. Short-termism always battles long-termism, the middle brother traditionally feeling adrift. It’s all a matter of perspective. I just wish something would make me chuckle.

 3. At what point will a bureau be founded that offers specious scores on our social media presence the way they offer specious scores on our credit? Better burnish your image, it’ll take years to correct that missed posting.

4. Standing in line behind someone laboriously trying to sort out exactly which lottery ticket to buy at the bodega is the 4th circle of hell.

 5. I say, “It’s a pleasure to meet you Mr. Bonds.” He says, “Mr. Bonds died in ’58. I’m Pete.”

 6. If you read one newspaper article today, read the whole of the New York Times Sunday Styles section from July 3rd 2016. Bill Cunningham is as legendarily lovely as anyone ever. A taste of greatness.

Sunday, June 26, 2016

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

This Week In Not Surfing

1. Middle-aged Italian hostess Flavia finds herself overwhelmed by her tyrannical Italian friends and Italian family and attempts to regain her self-confidence and independence with the help of a wise Italian psychoanalyst. Three Japanese sisters attend the funeral of their estranged Japanese father, encountering their shy Japanese half-sister and invite her to come and live with them. A shy Japanese high school student receives a letter from her future Japanese self and must decide whether to let fate run its course or save herself from regret. Educationless, motionless, purposeless and unsure of what the strike will bring, Mexicans Sombra and Santos begin to look for strange ways to kill Mexican time. Chie deals with her miraculous Japanese pregnancy that comes with a high risk of her cancer returning while she decides to prepare her Japanese child for life without her. These are the obvious choices. I go with the Italian sexual frustration, then the Mexican existential frustration. Both are excellent, but given half the chance I’ll gush about the Mexican one. Go rent Güeros. It is worth whatever time you sacrifice for it.

2. I am bitched at by a novice surfer in proverbial knee high slop. This creates a brief experiential parity as I’ve never been yelled at by a novice. Apparently I’ve infringed on he and his friend’s annual straight-to-the-beach buddy movie. Actually, I shouldn’t be so catty. I did paddle out a couple minutes after they did, to the same-ish sand bar they kept misaligning, on a beach the length of five football fields. But really. Really. We pulled up at the same time, to the same spot and all paddled out to this peak for a reason. It is the one that’s working. Even if they don’t use it quite right. After his tirade I invite him to choose a different peak a hundred yards down if my presence is cramping their style. They do just that, the aesthetic and technical results unchanged, for either of us. Still, I feel bad for unknowingly stressing them out and leave a note under their windshield wiper saying as much.

 3. Having a conversation takes time. I attempt to have many conversations in Los Angeles, completing, satisfactorily, only two, both of which happen over the phone, stuck in traffic.

 4. Jack Kerouac didn’t rate the over use of commas. Che Guevara didn’t rate democracy as much as Trotsky did in his later years. Aggressive capitalism leads to the wide acceptance of liberal values. I would surprised if, in ten years time, after the flowering of intellectually stimulating podcasts and the influx of New Yorkers into the lower echelons Los Angeles creative system thanks in part to a wide implementation of Uber, we don’t see a series of amazing, world changing methods and ideas coming out of this dry, traffic ridden and often vapid stretch of the West Coast. The sheer amount of racial, cultural and intellectual diversity driving around listening to thoughtful people saying interesting things about important subjects can only lead to something pretty amazing. You’d think. Renaissance might be the word.

 5. South African Natalie and I take Midwestern Wes to San Onofre for his first-ever paddle out. It is full of all the joys that almost always accompany teaching someone how to surf. Especially at San O. The satisfaction I feel while explaining the basic concepts of surfing to Wes, and then watching him give it all a go, sticks with me for days.

6. I am told that the over-manipulation of steroids in the body can lead to cancer. That when the body gets an influx of testosterone it eventually balances out the system with an increase of estrogen. When the testosterone levels fall, due to nature or a fluctuation in treatment, the estrogen levels are left there, dangling. I am told that estrogen, left there, dangling, un-balanced perhaps itself, can be a breeding ground for cancer. This makes some sort of sense to my layman’s ears and makes me rethink my dreams of HGH treatment to try and heal my ankle-less ankle.

7. Unconventional wisdom and unpopular opinion. This is how I feel about pulling up to Old Mans in a rented silver Audi kitted with Arizona plates and a Costco soft top strapped to the roof on ancient Air & Speed soft racks. I have to say, riding a Wavestorm as a twin fin is way more fun that riding it as a thruster. Life’s lessons are never ending.

Thursday, June 9, 2016

Happening : Liz Clark at Pata NYC

"Not to be missed next week in NYC, the brave-beautiful @captainlizclark in conversation with @shaneyjo of @keepabreast, @caitierowe of @wavesforwater and other amazing women who have made activism their life's work. See you at @patagoniabowery on Thursday, prepare to be inspired (and possibly quit your job, fair warning). #NYC — at Patagonia."

¡Atlantic Outlook!

Saturday, June 4, 2016


Do younger generations understand our heroes? Do we understand our parent's heroes? I don't understand Elvis, will my kids get Tom Curren? Sport in particular makes us do this as part of its mysterious joy. We compare Alfredo DiStefano to Cristiano Ronaldo, or Messi to Maradona, or Neco to Gabe. Maybe apples and oranges. Maybe not. But here, here is a best of all time, regardless of comparison. Respect.

Thursday, June 2, 2016

This Week In Not Surfing

1. Is there a difference between “denying that something happened” and “pointing out that something didn’t happen”? On the face of it, perhaps not, but I’m wondering lately about the psychological study of a word’s shifting meaning. Someone must study it. Probably it’s a cultural study. Or an etymological, lexicographical study. Probably all of them together. The idea that a word, innocuous in its usage, would connote over time a different meaning altogether thanks to its repeated context. Whereby “denial” conjures or equates a state of trial, a state of something already within the flow of dubious examination, when in fact, denial might simply be the statement of fact before that jurisprudence ever feels the need to be engaged.
 “What’s the weather outside?”
“It’s sunny!”
“So, you are denying that it’s raining?”
Does the affirmation of one thing connote the denial of another? Can I simply tell someone they are denying something and make it seem like they are contradicting a fact? Something like that. Quizzical. I'm not worried about it.

 2. Yesterday. I surf. It is my first surf since the last time I surfed, a span of misspent time documented in more than a few of these Not Surfing posts. It is my first surf after the Maiko & Shigeru move to Santa Barbara, those two stoked Japanese board-lovers. They are always a happy sight on the beach. Good luck Maiko and Shigeru! Say hi to Rincon for me! To Bedwetter! To Hammond’s!

 3. It is also a day which feels like the first day of recovery. I can’t get the thought out of my head. I am in desperate need of recovery. Yesterday is the first day. The waves look high-tide junky, then shift to mid tide central peak fun, and I get tired and fall over needlessly, but also paddle into some fun speedy rights. Recovery.

 4. As Kevin says: Danny doesn’t do platitudes. I wonder if I live my life through platitudes? The radio podcast yesterday says to always welcome a surprise. I’ve always hated surprises. Or maybe that’s just people jumping out of dark doorways to surprise me. But one might as well let people be people.

 5. Watching one local professional soccer team lose to another local professional soccer team seven to zero. Our preferred local soccer team being the losing side it provides an opportunity to teach my son about being a sports fan. Loss is part and parcel to life. Death, life. Blah blah. Another radio podcast platitude: “The winner is the loser who evaluates defeat properly.” Blah.

 6. Preventative medicine is just medicine in sheep’s clothing.

 7. You know the chips are down when you keep finding money in your pockets.

 8. Fetwa boulders arvo peert.

9. And one more thought, along this line of thinking: the word terrific. Whose etymology is not, as widely held, being that of "the fear of a small potted tree." In this way, the word horrific being a generally assumed misambiguated marriage of horror and terrific, rather is a combination of harangue and terrific, and has been the product of mispronunciation for so long that the meaning has been lost. Except, of course on the East Coast of the United States where the proper pronunciation hints at the real lingual lineage of the mot. Oh, the harror.

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Happening: Hōkūleʻa Visits NYC

"After sailing 26,000 nautical miles from Hawaiʻi, traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a is scheduled to arrive in New York City as part of the Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage sponsored by Hawaiian Airlines. So far, crew members have connected with over 45,000 people in communities across the South Pacific, Tasman Sea, Indian Ocean, Atlantic Ocean, and the Caribbean Sea including Samoa, Aotearoa (New Zealand), Australia, Indonesia, Mauritius, South Africa, Brazil, U.S. Virgin Islands, and Cuba. Navigating using the stars, clouds, ocean swells and other natural patterns, the crew will cover more than 60,000 nautical miles, 100 ports, and 27 nations once the voyage ends in June 2017. "

WHAT: Interview and photo opportunities of landing of traditional Hawaiian voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a in New York City. The free event will feature cultural performances by Native American tribes and hula hālau (troupes) from Hawai`i and New York. 

WHEN: Sunday, June 5, 8:00 am to 3:00 pm 

8:00 am Chant prayers of blessing prior to canoe arrival 
8:30-9:00 am Hōkūleʻa approaches North Cove Marina on the Hudson River
9:30 am Hōkūleʻa enters and docks at North Cove Marina
10:00-11:00 am Welcome by Native American tribes
11:00-11:30 am Chant of entry and remarks by Polynesian Voyaging Society
11:30am-Noon Welcome by Hawaiʻi and New York Officials Noon End of Ceremony— Opportunities for interviews with crew members
12:30-3:00 pm Performances by hula hālau (troupes) and Native American tribes 

WHERE: North Cove Marina, 385 South End Ave., Battery Park City, Manhattan 

WHY: Hōkūle‘a is scheduled to make a two-week stop in New York City to share the mission of the Voyage during free canoe tours and educational outreach programs. The canoe and crewmembers will also participate in the United Nations World Oceans Day, June 8, when master navigator Nainoa Thompson will share highlights of the Voyage and his first-hand observations on the state of the earth’s oceans. Hōkūle‘a’s Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage presented by Hawaiian Airlines is bringing attention to the critical need to protect the Earth’s natural resources by connecting with cultures and communities, sharing island wisdom and discovering environmental and indigenous stories of hope around the world. For the latest schedule, visit www.hokulea.com.

"Hōkūleʻa will sail to New York City, where she will be a focal point at World Oceans Day events hosted by the United Nations on June 8, 2016. The theme of this year’s World Oceans Day is Healthy Oceans, Healthy Planet. While in New York City, Hōkūleʻa will also participate in the Hawaiian Airlines Liberty Challenge, which is the east coast’s largest Pacific Islands festival and one of the world’s most competitive outrigger races. Hōkūleʻa is expected to depart New York City on June 18, for several engagements in the New England area."

Check out the amazing story of this crazy here... And this! Tuesday, June 7th at 7PM! Special Screening of The Legend of Eddie Aikau and talking Story with his Brother Solomon Aikau at Syndicated, in Bushwhick, Brooklyn. For all of you who love surfing and hawaiian culture, this event is not to be missed! You don't get too many opportunities to meet an Aikau! The late great Eddie Aikau's brother Solomon will be in attendance to talk story, share the knowledge of his brother and the Hokulea! Get on it! Tickets are on sale! http://syndicatedbk.com/event/hawaiian-the-legend-of-eddie-aikau/

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Wednesday, May 25, 2016