Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

This Week In Not Surfing

1. Middle-aged Italian hostess Flavia finds herself overwhelmed by her tyrannical Italian friends and Italian family and attempts to regain her self-confidence and independence with the help of a wise Italian psychoanalyst. Three Japanese sisters attend the funeral of their estranged Japanese father, encountering their shy Japanese half-sister and invite her to come and live with them. A shy Japanese high school student receives a letter from her future Japanese self and must decide whether to let fate run its course or save herself from regret. Educationless, motionless, purposeless and unsure of what the strike will bring, Mexicans Sombra and Santos begin to look for strange ways to kill Mexican time. Chie deals with her miraculous Japanese pregnancy that comes with a high risk of her cancer returning while she decides to prepare her Japanese child for life without her. These are the obvious choices. I go with the Italian sexual frustration, then the Mexican existential frustration. Both are excellent, but given half the chance I’ll gush about the Mexican one. Go rent Güeros. It is worth whatever time you sacrifice for it.

2. I am bitched at by a novice surfer in proverbial knee high slop. This creates a brief experiential parity as I’ve never been yelled at by a novice. Apparently I’ve infringed on he and his friend’s annual straight-to-the-beach buddy movie. Actually, I shouldn’t be so catty. I did paddle out a couple minutes after they did, to the same-ish sand bar they kept misaligning, on a beach the length of five football fields. But really. Really. We pulled up at the same time, to the same spot and all paddled out to this peak for a reason. It is the one that’s working. Even if they don’t use it quite right. After his tirade I invite him to choose a different peak a hundred yards down if my presence is cramping their style. They do just that, the aesthetic and technical results unchanged, for either of us. Still, I feel bad for unknowingly stressing them out and leave a note under their windshield wiper saying as much.

 3. Having a conversation takes time. I attempt to have many conversations in Los Angeles, completing, satisfactorily, only two, both of which happen over the phone, stuck in traffic.

 4. Jack Kerouac didn’t rate the over use of commas. Che Guevara didn’t rate democracy as much as Trotsky did in his later years. Aggressive capitalism leads to the wide acceptance of liberal values. I would surprised if, in ten years time, after the flowering of intellectually stimulating podcasts and the influx of New Yorkers into the lower echelons Los Angeles creative system thanks in part to a wide implementation of Uber, we don’t see a series of amazing, world changing methods and ideas coming out of this dry, traffic ridden and often vapid stretch of the West Coast. The sheer amount of racial, cultural and intellectual diversity driving around listening to thoughtful people saying interesting things about important subjects can only lead to something pretty amazing. You’d think. Renaissance might be the word.

 5. South African Natalie and I take Midwestern Wes to San Onofre for his first-ever paddle out. It is full of all the joys that almost always accompany teaching someone how to surf. Especially at San O. The satisfaction I feel while explaining the basic concepts of surfing to Wes, and then watching him give it all a go, sticks with me for days.

6. I am told that the over-manipulation of steroids in the body can lead to cancer. That when the body gets an influx of testosterone it eventually balances out the system with an increase of estrogen. When the testosterone levels fall, due to nature or a fluctuation in treatment, the estrogen levels are left there, dangling. I am told that estrogen, left there, dangling, un-balanced perhaps itself, can be a breeding ground for cancer. This makes some sort of sense to my layman’s ears and makes me rethink my dreams of HGH treatment to try and heal my ankle-less ankle.

7. Unconventional wisdom and unpopular opinion. This is how I feel about pulling up to Old Mans in a rented silver Audi kitted with Arizona plates and a Costco soft top strapped to the roof on ancient Air & Speed soft racks. I have to say, riding a Wavestorm as a twin fin is way more fun that riding it as a thruster. Life’s lessons are never ending.

Thursday, June 9, 2016

Happening : Liz Clark at Pata NYC

"Not to be missed next week in NYC, the brave-beautiful @captainlizclark in conversation with @shaneyjo of @keepabreast, @caitierowe of @wavesforwater and other amazing women who have made activism their life's work. See you at @patagoniabowery on Thursday, prepare to be inspired (and possibly quit your job, fair warning). #NYC — at Patagonia."

¡Atlantic Outlook!

Saturday, June 4, 2016


Do younger generations understand our heroes? Do we understand our parent's heroes? I don't understand Elvis, will my kids get Tom Curren? Sport in particular makes us do this as part of its mysterious joy. We compare Alfredo DiStefano to Cristiano Ronaldo, or Messi to Maradona, or Neco to Gabe. Maybe apples and oranges. Maybe not. But here, here is a best of all time, regardless of comparison. Respect.

Thursday, June 2, 2016

This Week In Not Surfing

1. Is there a difference between “denying that something happened” and “pointing out that something didn’t happen”? On the face of it, perhaps not, but I’m wondering lately about the psychological study of a word’s shifting meaning. Someone must study it. Probably it’s a cultural study. Or an etymological, lexicographical study. Probably all of them together. The idea that a word, innocuous in its usage, would connote over time a different meaning altogether thanks to its repeated context. Whereby “denial” conjures or equates a state of trial, a state of something already within the flow of dubious examination, when in fact, denial might simply be the statement of fact before that jurisprudence ever feels the need to be engaged.
 “What’s the weather outside?”
“It’s sunny!”
“So, you are denying that it’s raining?”
Does the affirmation of one thing connote the denial of another? Can I simply tell someone they are denying something and make it seem like they are contradicting a fact? Something like that. Quizzical. I'm not worried about it.

 2. Yesterday. I surf. It is my first surf since the last time I surfed, a span of misspent time documented in more than a few of these Not Surfing posts. It is my first surf after the Maiko & Shigeru move to Santa Barbara, those two stoked Japanese board-lovers. They are always a happy sight on the beach. Good luck Maiko and Shigeru! Say hi to Rincon for me! To Bedwetter! To Hammond’s!

 3. It is also a day which feels like the first day of recovery. I can’t get the thought out of my head. I am in desperate need of recovery. Yesterday is the first day. The waves look high-tide junky, then shift to mid tide central peak fun, and I get tired and fall over needlessly, but also paddle into some fun speedy rights. Recovery.

 4. As Kevin says: Danny doesn’t do platitudes. I wonder if I live my life through platitudes? The radio podcast yesterday says to always welcome a surprise. I’ve always hated surprises. Or maybe that’s just people jumping out of dark doorways to surprise me. But one might as well let people be people.

 5. Watching one local professional soccer team lose to another local professional soccer team seven to zero. Our preferred local soccer team being the losing side it provides an opportunity to teach my sone about being a sports fan. Loss is part and parcel to life. Death, life. Blah blah. Another radio podcast platitude: “The winner is the loser who evaluates defeat properly.” Blah.

 6. Preventative medicine is just medicine in sheep’s clothing.

 7. You know the chips are down when you keep finding money in your pockets.

 8. Fetwa boulders arvo peert.

9. And one more thought, along this line of thinking: the word terrific. Whose etymology is not, as widely held, being that of "the fear of a small potted tree." In this way, the word horrific being a generally assumed misambiguated marriage of horror and terrific, rather is a combination of harangue and terrific, and has been the product of mispronunciation for so long that the meaning has been lost. Except, of course on the East Coast of the United States where the proper pronunciation hints at the real lingual lineage of the mot. Oh, the harror.

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Happening: Hōkūleʻa Visits NYC

"After sailing 26,000 nautical miles from Hawaiʻi, traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a is scheduled to arrive in New York City as part of the Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage sponsored by Hawaiian Airlines. So far, crew members have connected with over 45,000 people in communities across the South Pacific, Tasman Sea, Indian Ocean, Atlantic Ocean, and the Caribbean Sea including Samoa, Aotearoa (New Zealand), Australia, Indonesia, Mauritius, South Africa, Brazil, U.S. Virgin Islands, and Cuba. Navigating using the stars, clouds, ocean swells and other natural patterns, the crew will cover more than 60,000 nautical miles, 100 ports, and 27 nations once the voyage ends in June 2017. "

WHAT: Interview and photo opportunities of landing of traditional Hawaiian voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a in New York City. The free event will feature cultural performances by Native American tribes and hula hālau (troupes) from Hawai`i and New York. 

WHEN: Sunday, June 5, 8:00 am to 3:00 pm 

8:00 am Chant prayers of blessing prior to canoe arrival 
8:30-9:00 am Hōkūleʻa approaches North Cove Marina on the Hudson River
9:30 am Hōkūleʻa enters and docks at North Cove Marina
10:00-11:00 am Welcome by Native American tribes
11:00-11:30 am Chant of entry and remarks by Polynesian Voyaging Society
11:30am-Noon Welcome by Hawaiʻi and New York Officials Noon End of Ceremony— Opportunities for interviews with crew members
12:30-3:00 pm Performances by hula hālau (troupes) and Native American tribes 

WHERE: North Cove Marina, 385 South End Ave., Battery Park City, Manhattan 

WHY: Hōkūle‘a is scheduled to make a two-week stop in New York City to share the mission of the Voyage during free canoe tours and educational outreach programs. The canoe and crewmembers will also participate in the United Nations World Oceans Day, June 8, when master navigator Nainoa Thompson will share highlights of the Voyage and his first-hand observations on the state of the earth’s oceans. Hōkūle‘a’s Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage presented by Hawaiian Airlines is bringing attention to the critical need to protect the Earth’s natural resources by connecting with cultures and communities, sharing island wisdom and discovering environmental and indigenous stories of hope around the world. For the latest schedule, visit

"Hōkūleʻa will sail to New York City, where she will be a focal point at World Oceans Day events hosted by the United Nations on June 8, 2016. The theme of this year’s World Oceans Day is Healthy Oceans, Healthy Planet. While in New York City, Hōkūleʻa will also participate in the Hawaiian Airlines Liberty Challenge, which is the east coast’s largest Pacific Islands festival and one of the world’s most competitive outrigger races. Hōkūleʻa is expected to depart New York City on June 18, for several engagements in the New England area."

Check out the amazing story of this crazy here... And this! Tuesday, June 7th at 7PM! Special Screening of The Legend of Eddie Aikau and talking Story with his Brother Solomon Aikau at Syndicated, in Bushwhick, Brooklyn. For all of you who love surfing and hawaiian culture, this event is not to be missed! You don't get too many opportunities to meet an Aikau! The late great Eddie Aikau's brother Solomon will be in attendance to talk story, share the knowledge of his brother and the Hokulea! Get on it! Tickets are on sale!

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Friday, May 20, 2016

This Week In Not Surfing

1. Surfing is a Sissy Macho Goon Parade of Hugs and Recrimination, Needless Politicking and Shallow Posturing. There is a tremendous amount of unintentional art in that. There are maddeningly few moments of self-deprecation. There is, a mosquito bite or two below the surface, an incredible crew of inspirational, well-meaning people stewing about in the cesspool of this culture. It Doesn't Not Work serves not only to remind me of how much I don't know about surfboard shaping and hydrodynamic design but also operates as an annual gang-shame of my more conspiratorial instincts. I'm not sure what the preceding sentences mean exactly, but I liked writing them.

2. On that tip, I did not attend this year's Fish Fry as I was distracted by my children and setting up IDNW. It is a classic moment of "I wish I'd taken the time to do that."

3. And so I haven't surfed in an even longer while. My left knee now feels funny when I bend it for too long. My right ankle taunts me daily. My hamstrings feel like new guitar strings. And I haven't practiced Tai Chi in forever. And I have a gym membership that is far too expensive.

4. There is an old adagial equation: Tragedy + Time = Comedy. I'm pretty sure the secret to happiness is hidden in the maths here. Where the definition of Tragedy is given sliding scale structure and where the accounting of Time is truly miserly. The idea is to get that Comedy as close to that Tragedy as possible. And since the only way to get anything right is to practice, make the T1 to C a daily algorithm, where dire drama becomes a constant companion, necessitating the manipulation of temporal understanding to force that salve of perspective. Granted, your friends and family will look at you like you're crazy as you sob over that burnt toast, but pretty soon they'll think you're amazing as you barf out fits of laughter as you break the pencil tip! If you can get that muscle memory hair trigger going, you may just make it through this after all.

Sunday, May 15, 2016


"He was responsible in great degree for the lives of millions of surfers - his surfing inspired the Malibu generation of the 1950's. Without this guy, there would not have been the revolution in performance surfing." - Derek Hynd

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Swell Season!

Yesterday morning I was interviewed by Ben of the Swell Season podcast, talking about Andreea Waters' photos and the It Doesn't Not Work community show happening at the Picture Farm Gallery this weekend. I'm not sure how much of our interview he'll use, I'm not sure he was ready for how verbose and incoherent I can be after my morning espresso. I vaguely remember opining about identity issues, the rise of DiY & Farm To Table culture and how the surf scene in New York is all about simply "going for it."

Monday, May 9, 2016

Happening : It Doesn't Not Work (III)

This coming Friday night we open IDNW2016 with a book launch and presentation of Andreea Waters' SURF NYC photobook. Swell permitting we roll into the annual Fish Fry and onto the mayhem that is It Doesn't Not Work.

Check out the WEBSITE for more infos!!!

Saturday, May 7, 2016

This Week In Not Surfing

1. It used to be that we knew nothing of each other's lives for extended periods of time. The stories stewing in the between grew a pungency, the books of heroes written in literarily heroics flying off the shelves by dint of sheer novelty alone. It demanded a readership. It demanded an ear. It demanded tales that would dip and divulge with humor and prose. But now what have I to tell you? I didn't surf in the last two weeks? I am at work today? Next week I will co-host a surf design symposium? Yes. Now I've told you. What's left?

2. I recently spent time in Washington DC where I saw more men smoking cigars than I can remember seeing outside a bachelor party.

3. There is an innate laziness in a life lived upon the crest of imperative.

4. "Manic Monday," that Bangles gem, released a bit over 30 years ago introduced me to  the still startling realization that Sunday can be magical.

5. Tomorrow is Mother's Day. I am typically unprepared.