Friday, March 27, 2009

Elizabeth Pepin Phots

Rad shots from Pacifica.

Thursday, March 26, 2009


Should be a fun night!

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Joey Clams hooked me into this one. I drove out to Long Beach today. Movie to follow, someday. Didn't get to test it though.

Friday, March 20, 2009

We give ourselves a hard time. We battle against whatever it is that looks beatable. We battle against things that look unbeatable. We draw our lines in the sand and make our stand and decide what's right and wrong, who is posing, who is reaching, who is trying too hard. We set ourselves in opposition. This guy, that guy, the other guy. His haircut is funny, she's too pushy. It's funny, how hard of a time we give ourselves.
The above picture is from Surfer Jim's crazy cam. It serves well enough its maddening purpose to verify information collected elsewhere. The odd thing about it is that were the conditions here obviously rideable every day, it wouldn't be such a poke in the eye and a knee to the groin. Oh, I'll just go when there's time. But the surf here is extra fickle. The acceptability switches the other way fast. The whole thing is so tantalizing, uncontrollable. Much respect to those who make it work.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Quakey OZ

Melbourne hit by tremor

  • Mex Cooper, Paul Millar
  • March 18, 2009

A second 4.6 earthquake has hit Korumburra, shaking buildings and homes across Melbourne and leaving scientists at a loss to explain why the town has been struck twice in two weeks.

Today's quake struck at 4.28pm, five kilometres north-west of Korumburra, 90 kilometres south-east of Melbourne and at the same spot where a 4.6 magnitude quake occurred on March 6.

Looks like the "BIG ONE" is imminent.....better get the f@%k out of here before the whole place burns & breaks up!


Wednesday, March 18, 2009

For the last eleven years or so, whenever I've spent any time in Carlsbad, I'd stop by the now defunct Longboard Grotto in Encinitas to check out the collection of literature, filmic offerings and used boards. I'd also make sure to finger through the cardboard boxes full of old postcards and photo prints and pick one out. It may say something about my sensibilities that this one jumped out at me as an instant classic. It hangs above my son's bed now and I can only hope that in time he gleans from it a similar sense of things.

(I actually don't know the photo credit, or who the fellow is waiting there on the board. If anyone has a clue, let me know.)

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Maybe this weekend?
Maybe this week?
It does wonders for the motivation.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Facebook Surfing

I hadn't done the facebook photo scan in a while when just now, bam! this one hits me. Ian doing what Ian does at least as good as most other things he does. A great photo of a great friend in a great position. This is just the sort of thing that makes the day bright.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Friday, March 13, 2009

Well, I'll be a monkey's uncle.
Look at this one from Jeff at Convenient Conversations covering the NYSFF and one other fest we were formerly a part of...

ESPN blog

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Every now and again someone send us a heads up that is thoughtful, kind and suspiciously cognizant of our inner sensibilities here at the Endless Bummer NY. The nice lady who runs the blog Making Friends with Neighbors did just that the other day. This film looks to be right down our alley.

check it "__"


Tuesday, March 10, 2009

What is acceptable? This is the fundamental question of human existence. The keystone of religion, culture, action. What is acceptable. When the answer loses its predictability, the system throws itself into chaos. The resulting tumult, the very nexus of fear to many is, for some, the sacred ground of creativity. And what is creativity, but process? Last year, around this time, I bought a 6/5 wetsuit. This year, since returning from California in early January, I have yet to surf Atlantic waters. I haven't used that wet suit more than a handful of times since its purchase. And by handful, I mean two. A month ago JJ received his custom-fitted Japanese rubber suit. Antonio swears he is up to paddle out for up to an hour in his 4/3. None of us has surfed New York in 2oo9. Two Fridays ago I saw Mollusk Chris on the street. We made plans to surf that Sunday. I worked at the office instead. This last Saturday night, I saw Jack and Alyssa, fresh off the plane from L.A. for a month stay. Over a bowl of Brazilian black bean soup, Jack's eyes got wide when I admitted to my lack of surf. Later that night, in conversation with Mark , his eyes got wide when I told him confidently that "sure, of course you can surf here in the winter." I actually said that. My world gets thrown into the tizzy when I think about lost time, lost opportunities, lost sessions. You should have been here yesterday. You should have been here twenty years ago. You should fix your priorities. That special seizing of the chest at the sight of Doc Ball and Leroy Grannis photographs. That quickening of breath at the flash of a Ron Stoner snap. The inevitable heat rises, the tension mounts, my eyes dart back then forth. Don't let yourself fall into the trap of those fearful types, I tell myself. I insist I will live here in my moment, knowing that the quagmire of acceptability is for me to traverse on my way. Here, I find my Cartesian point of no return: excuses are unacceptable.

Friday, March 6, 2009

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Monday, March 2, 2009


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