Whenever you get the chance, go. Stuck in San Francisco due to a cancelled flight? Call a friend in Santa Cruz, rent a car and get in the water for the first time in four months. Do not hesitate to take the flight TOMORROW.
5 comments:
Anonymous
said...
Actually, that's basically rule 1-300. This is just permutation #28.
just found you guys via the Mollusk NYC site. moving to NYC soon and looking for the surf community. I dug this post. Was just in Orange County and Malibu for work last week. Packed my suit, rented a 9'6" summer board and paddled out three of four days. Get out whenever you can.
Look no further than Mollusk in Brooklyn. Those guys have the fun film-showing thing dialed and they are a welcome edifice in a neighborhood full of the newly uninteresting. Anyhow, if you are a worker with familial stings, it can be tough to put together consistent surf, but people do it here. And they are heroes. We, we are not heroes, but that's our aspiration...
It's funny how the crumby reject breaks can seem so inviting to my nostalgic sense. Bedwetter and Miramar are just a couple that tantalize my memory as easy places to catch a few peeling types at the odd moment. Here we have Four Mile, a classic proposition. What a joy to get some right handers that open evenly, marching with blessed consistency to the beach. We just don't get that here too easily.
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5 comments:
Actually, that's basically rule 1-300. This is just permutation #28.
just found you guys via the Mollusk NYC site. moving to NYC soon and looking for the surf community. I dug this post. Was just in Orange County and Malibu for work last week. Packed my suit, rented a 9'6" summer board and paddled out three of four days. Get out whenever you can.
Good work here, fellas.
-jeff
Look no further than Mollusk in Brooklyn. Those guys have the fun film-showing thing dialed and they are a welcome edifice in a neighborhood full of the newly uninteresting.
Anyhow, if you are a worker with familial stings, it can be tough to put together consistent surf, but people do it here. And they are heroes. We, we are not heroes, but that's our aspiration...
Four Mile?! Florida Mile!? That Tranny/Slug/Xiled-older-Locals spot looks pretty good after being back east for so long!
It's funny how the crumby reject breaks can seem so inviting to my nostalgic sense. Bedwetter and Miramar are just a couple that tantalize my memory as easy places to catch a few peeling types at the odd moment. Here we have Four Mile, a classic proposition.
What a joy to get some right handers that open evenly, marching with blessed consistency to the beach.
We just don't get that here too easily.
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