In actuality I feel pretty removed from the whole thing, and not just because I don't surf in Hawaii. I have had my run-ins with localism and that has taught me a lot about the art of bringing a soft vibe into the water, trying not to get anyone upset. Not always about self-preservation, but about good-time motivation. Granted, for a long time I have avoided the particularly heavily localized spots with a certain zeal that might account for the nearly ever-present longboard. I might be pinned to say that one of the reasons I tend to log more often than not is to avoid the hassle of the big-name spots. Admittedly bizarre reasoning, but all psychological angles play their part I'm sure. -Toddy
Monday, January 26, 2009
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In actuality I feel pretty removed from the whole thing, and not just because I don't surf in Hawaii. I have had my run-ins with localism and that has taught me a lot about the art of bringing a soft vibe into the water, trying not to get anyone upset. Not always about self-preservation, but about good-time motivation. Granted, for a long time I have avoided the particularly heavily localized spots with a certain zeal that might account for the nearly ever-present longboard. I might be pinned to say that one of the reasons I tend to log more often than not is to avoid the hassle of the big-name spots. Admittedly bizarre reasoning, but all psychological angles play their part I'm sure. -Toddy
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3 comments:
Back in the 80's my buddies and I used to have a rough time going anywhere south of the campground in Carlsbad. The Swami's parking lot was kind of a no-man's-land. Hell, I almost got my ass kicked at Beacons of all places in high school.
It's very different now.
And by different I mean that it doesn't count as a session unless I fight my way out of the parking lot. Grrr!
What?
Seriously. NO ONE messes with the pain I bring. Actually, I employ crazy guy defense. Foaming at the mouth, shaking and spitting, talking about angels and demons. I either get left alone at that point or someone asks me for advice.
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