Friday, March 20, 2009

We give ourselves a hard time. We battle against whatever it is that looks beatable. We battle against things that look unbeatable. We draw our lines in the sand and make our stand and decide what's right and wrong, who is posing, who is reaching, who is trying too hard. We set ourselves in opposition. This guy, that guy, the other guy. His haircut is funny, she's too pushy. It's funny, how hard of a time we give ourselves.
The above picture is from Surfer Jim's crazy cam. It serves well enough its maddening purpose to verify information collected elsewhere. The odd thing about it is that were the conditions here obviously rideable every day, it wouldn't be such a poke in the eye and a knee to the groin. Oh, I'll just go when there's time. But the surf here is extra fickle. The acceptability switches the other way fast. The whole thing is so tantalizing, uncontrollable. Much respect to those who make it work.

2 comments:

rebeccajane said...

yo dat, friends.

gustav said...

Nice left....long & workable...Strong Island somewhere right?