Saturday, October 10, 2009

A Rare Thing

A photo of me surfing is maybe a three or four, okay possibly twelve in a lifetime thing. So far anyhow. Grant has made history. For me anyhow.

10 comments:

Toddy said...

A quick comment on the photo: not long after the shutter released, I did no more interesting thing on the wave. In fact I think I thought to do a little off the lip cut back sort of maneuver as it closed out, but ended up forgetting to get to the tail, instead letting my board slip out from under me. It was then that I swam in, got the board, and proceeded to get thumped on the head for about twenty minutes trying to get back out. Soon after, I paddled what must have been wave-of-the-day material and didn't paddle hard enough. That's right, I dropped right down the back as the beauty peeled on. Someone even hooted while I was paddling for it. Disaster. The next wave was a closeout where I lost my board again. The paddle out was excruciating, again. The wave after, my last wave, I just made it into a fast one, slid down the face and got smashed a little. Yep. I'll remember this day for a long time. Thanks alot Grant.

ras said...

well its a good one -lining it up, low center of gravity and narrow mellow stance. respec

grant said...

photography always lies to someone.

Christian said...

That's a great photo. Sometimes it's nice to squat down, if only to feel closer to the energy of the wave, to sense the water rushing all around you.

Regarding the loss of the board and getting crushed, there's no photographic proof of that, so it didn't happen. There's only proof of you ripping.

jandi said...

Nice shot. Looks like you are in East coast Oz other than the wetsuit. Thanksgiving in CA?

rebeccajane said...

Haha! That sounds like me going surfing yesterday Toddy!

Good for maintaining the humility levels though, don't you think?

And that pic is just lovely, so something good came of it all.

Bill said...

The crush,slaps,thumps,excruciation, and smashes are really what contribute to the greatness of any sweet ride.

Sweet ride !


Ride on

Toddy said...

Yep, I gotta had it to Grant for making it all look so easy...

Mr. Lentini said...

stoked and bummed..stoked cause thats a great image of you bummed cause its not a image of me

Anonymous said...

That's a beauty Todd, it's all about the moment and in that moment you are lined up and perfectly sailing down the line... Bobby