Someone said, or many people have, that one of the magic mysteries of surfing, at least for now, is that we can meet the mythic heroes of our lore in person; we can paddle right next to them in the lineup. Jamie Watson's old man took some beautiful photos of Buttons Kaluhiokalni and has warm story to tell. Click on the photo...
Friday, January 8, 2010
Someone said, or many people have, that one of the magic mysteries of surfing, at least for now, is that we can meet the mythic heroes of our lore in person; we can paddle right next to them in the lineup. Jamie Watson's old man took some beautiful photos of Buttons Kaluhiokalni and has warm story to tell. Click on the photo...
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when I was a teenager, i spent many summers on Oahu surfing Kaisers, Number 3s, Ala Mo and other places. My mom became good friends with a local guy who was the hotel manager at the PK in Waikiki. He introduced me to BK, Buttons, Bertleman, Aipa and others. I was a grom - frothing - and watching Buttons surf Kaisers was orgasmic. He was doing shit back then that even today would blow your mind. He is one amazing human being. wasabi.
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