Foto by ToddyThe back story is what makes the picture, really. Besides the good surfing. But the good surfing comes into focus a touch finer after the back story. Which is a short story really. It has to do with a universally unexpected onshore wind blowing for an unheard-of week straight. Bumpy faces, uneven sections, waves having a tougher time making the connection inside. A softball of a wave in normal conditions, its critical nature didn't get any more critical with the extra breeze. All to say garnering enough momentum to commit a rail in any fashion would read as a practice in ex nihilo creativity. Chris stood out as just such an imaginative personality out there. Always agitating to try a different board, keeping things fresh, I think he settled on that little purple fish as his preferred paintbrush. It was fun to watch him make the sort speed he was pining for.
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