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2 comments:
I hate that we are getting to the point that all the guys from the pioneering era of surfing are croaking..dora..velzy.hoffman and so on and so on..such a damn bummer..those guys were so much tougher on their off days then most guys today at their best
To think that I've probably paddled out with enough pioneering surfers and never even known it. It's great that we have the chance to meet them, if we take it, but also bitter as when they pass, there is a sense of missed opportunity. But so it is.
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