The inevitable truth is if you don't live right next to the coast, if you can't put your eyes on the swell and feel the wind, you're simply not living a surfing life. If you can't hop into the water the moment the water is hoppable, you're not going to get the most out of your surfing expectations. And this hurts. Of course, there are those who have all these things, but don't have the time to respond to each oceanic whim. They wake up, look at the water, wet their index finger and still have to get to work/get the kid to school/sell some drugs before they can get in the water if at all. And then there are those guys who get to surf so much that over time they lose track of surfing; those types that live the surfy life but will only go out "when it's prefect, bro." All I'm saying is thank god there's magazines like As Is to address these niggling queries about the purity of my shit, how to tell if she's lying about whether I hit her too much and where to stash all that filthy lucre I'm raking in as a piomp. Life is good my friends. Life is good.
Friday, January 7, 2011
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1 comment:
ouch I am so the guy that looks at it every day and doesnt get to play
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