Friday, July 20, 2012

Dead Kooks Surf Days


Speed, freedom, recklessness, expression, connection. All with a soft landing. Surfing offers so many different things to so many people. They pick and choose which bit of surfing they want to be part of, what cultural counterpoint they want surfing to perpetually incarnate for them. We put so much meaning into this particular activity. It gives us a place to live, a whimsy to indulge, a code to live by. We pour, pour, pour our being into this activity. We watch these videos and we imagine we're there. We are keen on the nuances. We try to ingest these moments hoping they will be part of our DNA too. Their muscle memory is our muscle memory. Please, please, please give me more, we plead. And then we don't want any more because it's ours, ours, ours and if there is more someone else will get it too. And who wants that!

2 comments:

gillian_lee said...

Thanks - am about to go for the first winter surf I've had in about a month and now I'm feeling more stoked than ever.

ras said...

sometimes I dunno if it's the act or simply a definition for the culturally confused. surfing that is.

it's fun that's for sure.

but what about cooking? cooking's got style, flourish, traditions, nuances, balance.

we need something to define our existence. like line drawings define symbols. like skull and crossbones -or, a heart.

the more of the loggin videos I watch the more I see them as 90's shortboard videos. it's the way of the bird.

like Jonathan Livingston Seagull -or Jerry and Lisa.

mahalo