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3 comments:
bottom turn at 56 seconds is sooooo shitty and sooo awesome and attainable
I lived on this beach- pre and post destruction- Met Fain in 67, then again in 2000. He was surfing for a movie again, I was the water safety/ snake patrol. Every wave that came through, that we weren't filming, Johnny would take off and burn all of us, while laughing hysterically and talking shit when we paddled back to the line up. Funny now, but no so much then.
I lived on this beach- pre and post destruction- Met Fain in 67, then again in 2000. He was surfing for a movie again, I was the water safety/ snake patrol. Every wave that came through, that we weren't filming, Johnny would take off and burn all of us, while laughing hysterically and talking shit when we paddled back to the line up. Funny now, but no so much then.
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