Surfed in New York for the first time since the storm yesterday. Planted the boy in a tent on the beach with a laptop and a movie and paddled into the fog. He was happy, I was happy. Better than the last time I planted him on the beach for a winter surf, spun up like a turban in a few wool blankets, wrapped tight as a little sand burrito in 30ish˚ weather bored and sweating while I struggled on a board too small, drenched in my own mixture of sweat and salt water. Yesterday offered some very speedy little beach break waves that were 70/30 on the "too fast" side, the 30 being just enough to stoke. Cleared brush brought in by the storm, removed dead flooring and tried to wrap my head around getting the place ready for the next flood.
2 comments:
(Roughly) where'd you surf? I felt weird paddling out in the 90s even super super early a week and a half ago.
Well, one, if you're out there volunteering, even if not on the particular day you're surfing, but if you're out there or elsewhere trying to help and do your part for an area you enjoy so much, then you shouldn't feel weird. (Of course if you are just a taker... well...) I was down there a few days after the storm seeing some serious devastation and one of the first things I thought when I saw the water was that I wished I'd see some surfers out there persevering and getting back to it.
And that leads me to two: I wish the water were clean enough so those people out there who are working their tails off could look forward to an early morning or afternoon surf to unjangle their nerves and blow off some steam. Be careful in that water. A lot of bad stuff floating around in there.
Finally, three, I was out further east. Not all the way east, but east enough where I am the other half of my free time.
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