Wednesday, November 13, 2013


After a few days in the interior and a long drive through hills of cow fields to get here. I was happy to feel that sense of expectation I thought lost on too many responsible hrs at work. It's nice to still feel like a kid as you round the bend  at the sight of the pacific on the horizon trying to get a sense of the status of the swell. This place is rather consistent and always kind to the out of shape travelers while offering a nice mixture of beautiful enviorment warm water and usually really fun head high waves. It's been built up a lot since the last time I was here but I only noticed six people in the water at peak time. Oh, and that's my dad who grew up in panama but had  never been here before. And we introduced the place to my brothers two year old who calls my dad 'my papi'.

1 comment:

Toddy The Ed Board said...

Rad. CAtch a couple for me and I'll pay you in beer when you get back.