Pinky On The Brain

More Notes on Surfing a Poo Board

Going left is a little more fun that going right actually.
As there is no real solid "control" so to speak, the added comfort of frontside surfing actually takes away from the helter skelter sloshy mania of backside desperation-sliding.
There is no long nose ride, no complete cutback, no knifing trim, no sexy bottom turn.
There is an arm pierce to rail yank to butt dangle to parallel stance to switch foot to half cross amble to sloppy cheater five back to regular stance to mush ball float turn arm extension quasimodo.
There is knee knocking and back bending, elbow jiggling and neck gyrating.
In a funny way, the whole experience eschews any sense of control other than whatever I can exert into the slim arena of staying slightly stylish during the most unstylish ride possible.
It has occurred to me that this whole thing might smack of the most boring kind of aggressively ironic screw-you posing, and maybe it is.
But it has also occurred to me that my favorite boards right now (the idiotic softtop and the irascible Vaquero) play by their own rules, rarely allowing me to dictate much in terms of trajectorious decision-making.
In this I find a little solace in fooling myself that as I grow older and wiser I just may be looking for novel ways to practice my new-found acceptance of an inevitable loss of control in all bits of my life.
Either way, I can only hope I look like I'm having as much fun as I'm actually having, a maneuver I find surfers often fail to master.