Well, this deserves a mention : a Becoming Westerly review.

"Part biography, part memoir, part indictment of surfing’s failure-to-launch culture, Brisick’s new book is a raw, intellectual triumph of American surf writing."

I'm toe-deep into this right now and am already hooked by the diligent & patience and observation on show. I'm only a little bit in, but already Jamie's sensitivity and honesty have snagged the corner of my imagination. 

Read the Surfline review here.