Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Ghosts Of October

Of all the surfable days of the last couple weeks, I've only surfed three of them. But they were three happy, happy days each one with its own character and mood. The first, last Wednesday, fun and loopy. A goofball fest. The second, Monday morning, a heavier grey with hints of surprising. The third, this morning, almost didn't happen but turned out bigger and more lined up than I'd imagined, offering a couple enjoyable, brain fluid giggling massage moments along with a few very lined up zoomers. All on my beloved big pink softtop of doom. Two of them in the company of the lovely Ty Breuer, who makes every session a super session.

A little look at the action from Thomas Brookins.

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