Thursday, July 1, 2010

The Surf Magazines Don't Talk About Lapsed Catholics



Two years ago they found a big lump of malignant cells in my friend's chest. It wasn't the first time my life had been brushed with cancer, but it has become, in its way, the most intimate. Something about the sameness of our age, the closeness of our friendship, the already looming specter of mortality that had just started skulking around my mid-thirties. The whole thing set me off into what is still a period of reckoning. Antonio came up with the footage at the right time. Alex, the voice.
This weekend we go to the beach to celebrate with our friend who has since gone through the ringer grappling with the thing. I promised him I'd take him surfing.

11 comments:

Rebecca Olive said...

One of my favourite films, that makes even more sense now.

Stoked to see it posted here!

Christian said...

This is such an amazing film. I've watched it at least a dozen times. Slay some surf with your friend and enjoy life. I know that's why I keep going despite the suckiness of the LA surf scene.

glider said...

very cool thanks for posting it up

wheelsontoast said...

That's amazing, just watched this film with the sound down at work (shame) and it really is so affirming. Nicely considered typography on the subtitles too. Lovely work.
Cheers
Rich
http://wheelsontoast.wordpress.com/

Bill said...

surf on

Dave Surfs said...

Hmmm! my friend Pete would say, we surf together and we talk about the humiliation. We know about the fear, at 42 I started to surf and to live and I face that fear at every wave over 4ft, but to ride those waves feels like Nirvana, so I go, a metaphor for life and the things that come our way.

Anonymous said...

Great video. Surfing will change your life that is for sure!

Thanks for sharing.

www.seasandsurf.com

EndlessBummerNY said...

Thanks for all the words. Ms. Olive posted it up over at the seminal literary surf-mago-dealio Kurungabaa.net and the response has been equally kind spirited.
If you haven't yet checked out that rag, do so with haste.

Caitlin said...

This is so beautiful. (Big) Dan told me to check it out and I am so emotional from just having watched it. An incredibly thoughtful and thought-provoking tribute to such a great friend. Thanks for sharing.

Anonymous said...

kudos, toddy
g

Anonymous said...

kudos, toddy
g