Sunday, October 10, 2010
Cute October.
There are times when I am just a chatter box in the water. Yes, it gets me dirty looks. I go with a friend and I want to talk. In the water. Or I see a friend and I want to talk. In the water. I hoot, then I whistle and then I try something goofy on a wave someone else might take more seriously. Not because the wave isn't serious, or because I am so gall-darn good on a surfboard I am like a Superman among Jimmy Olsens, but because I have a hard time directing my energy in a studious, contained manner. Today was a day like that. Today was also a day that very much reminded me, amidst all of my grousing about how much I hate the Autumn time-compression vomit fest, that October may very well be the best month to surf in New York. Verily, perhaps my favorite month surfing anywhere, that is, surfing in New York in October is better than surfing anywhere else at any time. This is hogwash of course, but there is a grain of truth there. However atomic. And some of my favorite surfing memories have been with Tommy. His ability to keep me on my toes with an never ending variety of dispositions is a joy I'll not let myself forget. Ever. And isn't it just cute, that there chalk drawing?
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1 comment:
Whenever I lose my stoke for surfing/work/life I can come over here and have it reignited. EBNY is a rad place. I'm happy to know it. Thanks.
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