Phil Edwards, Cottons Point, circa 1960 : Bruce Brown |
"Wait a minute, let me see, what did you say? Five foot and glassy? Ok, hold on... what? It said three foot and poor. What was this guy thinking?"
"So a whole year off, huh? Does she have a plan? Is she going to study with someone?"
"Yeah, I don't know, she says she is going to do meditation at the Zen Center every morning."
"Every morning? What is she going to do for the rest of the day?"
"Jeez, I don't know, I haven't asked her that yet. Maybe you should talk to her."
"Really, when you're our age, if you're lucky enough to surf once a week it's a basically like when we were twenty, surfing every day."
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