Wednesday, June 12, 2013

The Mastic Bureau

This is an email from a buddy of mine. All of these  words stemmed from watching a Brad Domke clip:

"Unfortunately, I suck ball sack at surfing.  I do all my snaps like two feet in front of the correct section, all my cutbacks too far out on the shoulder, never really take off deep enough to get a ton of barrels and then I probably close my eyes anyway when the lip comes down.  Every once in a while the stars line up just right for me and it brings me back.  

Oh, and sometimes I paddle really hard for the big set waves and the fruits and failures of battle get played out instantaneously."


1 comment:

o4trix said...

such is the human condition.

keep rippin da pit Mastastico, ride da vibe