This is an email from a buddy of mine. All of these words stemmed from watching a Brad Domke clip:
"Unfortunately, I suck ball sack at surfing. I do all my snaps like two feet in front of the correct section, all my cutbacks too far out on the shoulder, never really take off deep enough to get a ton of barrels and then I probably close my eyes anyway when the lip comes down. Every once in a while the stars line up just right for me and it brings me back.
Oh, and sometimes I paddle really hard for the big set waves and the fruits and failures of battle get played out instantaneously."
-Mastastico
1 comment:
such is the human condition.
keep rippin da pit Mastastico, ride da vibe
Post a Comment