Morning dawns too late for a surf after a long flight, as family abounds around.
But the swell is coming up and the temp is rising for the weekend.
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2 comments:
I miss living down there. Pretty morning. We had a nice a.m. session, too. I made a little film and shared the story of how I punched it out with Anthony K. Peace.
Oh man, I cannot wait to read about that when I get back to normal blog-reading life.
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