Carlsbad Bureau 12/29/2oo8 Music by Harry Owens & Montovani
Yesterday initially offered little in the way of substantial surf of any kind. I ventured to Swami's early, as it turned out too early, as the tide brought the waves to nearly lap the bluffs. When I got home, I settled down to a day where "perhaps I'll paddle the coast later" became the mantra. Then things got interesting, then beautiful, then surprising, then downright saccharine. Uncle Rob showed up, promising to explain a picture I found in his apartment of he and Duke Kahanamoku, I ate some delicious home made tamales covered with Theresa's special mole and had a nice long talk with my mother about the state of things. I ventured out just north of G&P's for a surprisingly fun midday surf, then lucked into a second super fun presunset surf a little later at the same unconventional spot. In between, and around, the bounty of Carlsbad made itself plain. This film is a crack-up to me. All the more striking as I didn't even film the fun surfs I lucked into.