Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Video From Early, Story From Late

video

Carlsbad Bureau 12/30/2oo8

Sometimes a session is so distilled it sits in the noodle like a meatball for the rest of your life. I have a handful like that, most of them from a long time ago, but yesterday evening, the ocean offered me another. I paddled out to one of those magical four wave sessions where no one is out and the tide is working the beachbreak just right, between unrideable and perfectly peeling. As I kicked out of my second wave, the wave that worked the best in that little, fortunate window, the wave where I could do nothing but slot and walk and statue for the startingly long ride, I looked up to see the sun set, painting those silvery vagueries called colors-I-have-rarely-seen. I stayed out for another brace of increasingly dumping, but still semi-perfect waves and called it a day. I must have been in the water for all of fifteen minutes, if that.

4 comments:

Christian said...

I know what you mean. Monday and Tuesday I had two absolutely amazing sessions. This morning I went back to the same spot for a third, but it was cold, crowded and there were no familiar faces. I went home, knowing that to paddle out would lead to disappointment. How can you follow up a near perfect session?

toddy said...

Acceptance is the first step. You just have to paddle out and get on with your life. Ha!

Mr. Lentini said...

the newish banner looks great

Toddy said...

Thanks mister. That whole banner comp deal was pretty fun.