Friday, December 5, 2014

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Respect


I didn't know Ray well. He was here long before we were here in this part of Brooklyn. I was always in his presence though, especially at a certain time a number of years back. Our crowds were the same crowds. He'd always be in the corner with his shirt unbuttoned, revealing those tattoos. He was the real deal, whatever that is. But he was it. Respect.

File Under : "I Wish I Were This Cool."

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Herring

Tom Curren came improbably back to win the world title after all those years off in 1990. This was when I was deep in the narrative. Locked to ski boat or ski lift at the time, surfing offered that "other" at the most potent adolescent moment of other-lust. Elko, Carroll, Hardman. Australian jocks to me. And Pottz was the Rasta Schwarzenneger. Then comes along this kid from Florida that everyone said was the next thing. I didn't know what a thruster really was. I didn't know how power surfing was supposed to feel. I could argue I still don't. I was simply taking huge drags off of the Surfer and Surfing magazines I'd find on the magazine rack at the drug store while my mom was grocery shopping. But Shane Herring. This was the kid from Australia that was going to break the American grip on power. I didn't remember any of this unprompted. Ty Breuer mentioned a film about Shane Herring the other night and this flood of memories of pictures, articles, ads. Shane Herring, I'd forgotten about him, and with him that initial feeling of unknowing obsession. And I realize that sense of otherness, of surfing being some other person's property has stayed with me all this time. Shane Herring. Good to see you old friend.


Sunday, November 30, 2014

Sunday, November 23, 2014

This Week In Not Surfing

Two Things:

1)

Serial - It seems all my friends have been talking about it, or at least enough to make me feel like they've all been talking about it. And yes, it is worth it. As wifey puts it: this is "The Wire" of radio. More on this sort of topic here...

2)

 

Friday, November 21, 2014

Today's Other Thought

Happening : Patagonia, Wax & Surfers Healing



WAX and Patagonia Bowery are proud to present The Bowery Project to benefit Surfers Healing, part of an annual benefit auction to raise funds for the Surfers Healing Foundation. This is the seventh year for the event, which features an auction of fourteen surfboards with artwork by world-renouned artists and designers.

PATAGONIA BOWERY
313 Bowery, New York, NY 10003
Nov 19 – Dec 31

Today's Thought

Click le pic.

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Monday, November 17, 2014