The Endless Bummer

I haven't surfed with the regularity I crave in years. In fact, the last time I surfed with that sort of near-daily consistency, I jumped ship just as my ability reached its peak, moving into a sort of perceived adulthood with an abruptness that took me by surprise. (Adulthood was, of course, and perhaps remains, some years off.) And yet, as it is with the basic property of the endeavor, namely sitting and waiting for nature to provide, it is a joy to take pride in the small moments. The relearning of basic truths is a hallmark of good education, and my year has been filled to the brim. And this is, I think, what it is proverbially all about. And so it is this last weekend with little fanfare, and probably even littler instant results, that I remembered, after years of forgetting, that if I really want my cut back to have any authority, I have to look at where I want to go. Actually turn my head and look back at the wave behind me, where I want to go. It's embarrassing to admit I forgot that in the first place. But I guess that's how this whole thing works.
-toddy