Susan Casey's The Wave

Apologies to whoever's photo this is, I can't remember where I got it, but it is rad, thanks.

I nearly tripped over it coming out of my son's kung fu class.  It was in a box with some other books near the stairs and it caught my eye.  Everyone and anyone who finds out I'm a surfer (my emphasis, and maybe theirs)(likely with different emphasis) and has read this book asks me immediately if I've read it.  So frankly I've been wanting to. I was a little leery to pull out a book from a box on the street, I've heard bed bugs hide in paper, but it was just so tantalizing, and it is a nice street really.  Not a bed bug street.  So I took it home, put the dust jacket in the trash and started to read it that night.  I got about a chapter and a half, then skimmed a few more, and then put the book down not knowing exactly what I was feeling. I didn't pick the book back up.  Then today I read David Morris' book review in this Surfer's Journal and he sums it up.  He sums up quite a bit actually.   If you've got the issue, take a look.  If you're in a shop and they've got it, slyly take a look.  Erudite stuff from the surfy standpoint, hitting the target right in the middle